Required fields are marked *. Also, if you hit down this far, are there any good suggestions forcorrecting some minor warpage in the door? Please submit links to how-to pages and videos, pictures of beautiful and amazing pieces you made for us to admire, or help you finish. The mortice lock is an extra $200 over thebase handle set (which we would need even with the new door). If the door is also warped, and it doesn't have historical>value (ie, your doing all this to save a few bucks), then scrap it and>buy a new door. > 3. They are around the same price as disc locks and are extremely sturdy. Knead-mix the hardener paste (plastic tube) well first to blend back any separation. It has a mortise style lock in it. About straightening a warped door, I don't know if it's possible. Replace the old mortise lock with a newer one. My wife and I just purchased a house with a nicebut old door. What would realistically happen after a gravity magic spell is cast? It ispretty common in some old neighborhoods to see two locks installed inthis manner, often with the older lock providing nothing more than adoor knob and latch. There will be a bit of surface tack for a while. How To Lock And Unlock A Ford Escape With Keypad, How To Stop House Doors From Freezing Shut. Each of the holes located at the center is marked for the door's face and edge by inserting a pencil through the paper template. We offer Door Latch Conversion Plates as well as Door Hole Filler Plates. Schlage Keyless Door Lock Just Spins What To Do? He said that this is ONE thingthat Bondo does really well. to add a wood exterior patch in case the old hole could not be covered, yet still have a nice wood grain for staining. Keep in mind, however, that the cost is not solely monetary. Announcing the Stacks Editor Beta release! Unfortunately, I will not be ableto watch the program and obtain the address this weekend. All in all I think I am making the right choice. 1. ..gtb In article <, to Jerry Fountain, g@jules.chem-eng.nwu.edu, at, umc, esvax. Being old is not it's problem. > 2. We would like to keep thedoor, but have only a few choices. The door frame's striker plate should be uninstalled. I guess I'm confused. Just get a thin cutting disc for an angle grinder and cut the bolt between the door and the frameif you're careful, you won't even touch the frame or the door. Copyright 2022 US Homeware Inc., If you want to patch the door you will need to use a>>piece(s) of solid wood (same species as the door), your filler idea would>>be a disaster. Just make sure you get a good lock. Being old is not it's problem. The mortise pockets are approx 4" by 3.25" by 3/4". All orders over $250.00 - Ends Last day of August. Filling the old mortise hole in a way that will maintain the strength of the lock area. What you need to do is to make a Dutchman>patch. We did budget in>a good size fudge factor on our repair budget so we can handle it, but no>need to spend what you don't have to.>>Thanks for the suggestions!>>Jerry>-- >Jerry Fountain | Laboratory for Fluid Mechanics, Chaos, and Mixing>g@chem-eng.nwu.edu | Northwestern University>(847) 491-3555 (Office) | Department of Chemical Engineering>(847) 491-3728 (FAX) | 2145 Sheridan Road, Evanston, IL 60208. The door is drilled with two holes, one for the lock chassis and the other for the latch bolt, one through the door's faceand also theother through the strike edge. You don't dislike the look of mortise locks, just the security. Put one of those ugly brass plate converter kits on it. Wrap strips of masking tape around the edge of the door if needed to secure the shim to the door overnight or until the glue dries. Age limit for masters program in germany? I like this idea, will get a block that is somewhat smaller than the pocket and butter the ends with Bondo. The lock mortise's depth, width, and height should all be measured. You can write the program host for product information. I would appreciate any suggestions here on how to proceed, if this is the best way, etc. High-security locks, on the other hand, are more expensive than regular locks. Filler plates are used to cover up unused holes in your doors, such as those where an old deadbolt used to be or where a strike hole has been drilled. It's warped, too. 1. just find a mortice lock that will work with your lever. If the door is also warped, and it doesn't have historical>>value (ie, your doing all this to save a few bucks), then scrap it and>>buy a new door.>>The new door would run about $500 minimum for equivalent quality and>probably a bit more. >correcting some minor warpage in the door? g@jules.chem-eng.nwu.edu (Jerry Fountain) wrote: > 1. Throw it out and spring for a new door. In the long run, I think you would be happier with a new motise lock. Many of them only open the latch when turned in a particular direction, not in any direction as a modern knob will. I prefer the solid knob-to-knob connection of cylindrical locks. Choose a dowel rod that matches the diameter of the hole and cut it about 1/32 inch longer than the depth of the hole. Put one of those ugly brass plate converter kits on it. 2. Is there any recommended way of>fixing this? No need to put a Dutchman in on each side, just cut out a nice new hole with squared corners and fill with a patch of new wood. To avoid splintering, put steady pressure, but forcing the saw is not recommended; rather, enable it to cut through the opposite side. I ended up using Famowood Natural wood filler. Some exterior doors use a mortise lock. Changing a mortise lock to a cylinder one can be such a difficult undertaking to do. I'll probably use either the Minwax "Bondo" orepoxy fit a plug into the hole (and let the new strikeplate cover therepair). I still can't figure out the geometry here, but for any size this product fills wood in super-duper fashion. To learn more, see our tips on writing great answers. >Ok all you wood workers. When it comes to selecting the most effective locks, there is a common question that emerges. It has a mortise style lock in it. 2. It is a solid, hardwood door but>>it bows out almost 1/4" at the top edge. Thisis starting to be waaaaaaaay more trouble than it's worth. There is no cosmetic problems with filling it (the strike and new set would cover it completely). Fine for a commercial setting but out of place on our front door. The door "walls" on the sides of the pocket are only about 1/4" thick so I am afraid of damaging the integrity of the door. Connect and share knowledge within a single location that is structured and easy to search. I am afraid of damaging the door, so given the non-uniformity of the inside pocket I am now thinking of filling in the pocket with wood filler (either Minwax or 3M Bondo or Famowood) and then drilling out the 2 1/8" circle with a hole saw. "Chuck"RingMadera Encantada "Enchanted Wood"e-mail to:Cr@concentric.net, >In article <4ndkm3$p@news.ccit.arizona.edu>,>Mitch Favreau wrote:>>>If you really want to keep the door, you might reconsider a new or>>rebuilt mortise lock, will cost more up front, but will save you alot of>>agravation. Our new handleset will cover the holes in the face of the door (which are quite small). Because they are kept internally within the storage unit, similar to front door locks in your home or apartment, these are the most secure locks available. And can be drilled through nicely, even partially drilled for holes that span filler and wood. We can then install a less expensive regular door> fixture (that *will* cover the old small, and now patched holes). It is a solid, hardwood door but>it bows out almost 1/4" at the top edge. Drill it through the face of the door until you hit the spherical mortise opening you created. I have another brand "Endurafil" from J.E.Moser's which works very well but I prefer the more wood tone of the Minwax product. "On the Space Coast | | --attributed to Mahatma Ghandi (1869-1948). Apply glue to the interior of the hole. What's the preferred method for completely filling the mortise with new wood? The major advantage of this type of lock is its simplicity of installation. Replace the old mortise lock with a newer one. Leave the lock in place. Glue in the patches and clamp. Why does "cp" complain about identical files when chaining with "find"? It would not expand and contract with the rest of the>door and would be a bitch to drill out for the new lockset (not to>mention the dificulty in getting that thick an application of epoxy to>cure evenly. If the internal dimensions aren't square, use a chisel until it is. I would sweatthe security quite so much, any thief who really wants to get into yourhouse WILL get in. rev2022.7.29.42699. Shaddy has also worked as a newspaper reporter and writer, and as a contributing writer for Bicycling Magazine. Also, if you're going to stain & not paint, then your only option is wood. > of the lock area. When the patches are flush, remove the tape. Whatever it takes to get whomever to go botheryour neighbors rather than you. Press question mark to learn the rest of the keyboard shortcuts, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=goJv62Mpkq0. replace the existing solid core with a new one in this area.This gives a good solid volume to drill for a new lockset. document.getElementById( "ak_js_1" ).setAttribute( "value", ( new Date() ).getTime() ); Your email address will not be published. > out that Baldwin carried mortise locks, but they are pretty pricy> (close to $200 over and above the price of the normal Baldwin lock). The new knob and lockset attach to thereinforcer and the reinforcer attaches to the door. I'm not knocking BONDO except personal preference for my wood working. We would like to keep the>>door, but have only a few choices.>, >Well, here's my idea. I hope that this info will be of some use. I came across a This Old House video that demonstrates how to fill a mortise lock with a Dutchman. By the way, I don't see anything wrong withmaking the thickness of the patch a little thicker than the recess, onceyou insert it, if it is thicker it can then be planed or otherwise dressed down(didn't want to come right out and say the sanding word)Neanders lurking about, you know! However, it's impossible to say that it's safe just because a lock costs a lot of money. A mortise lock, which is used in both residential and commercial buildings, needs the removal of a pocket, or mortise, from the door where the lock is to be fitted. Now to fill the hole I was thinking of a mixture of shavings and some epoxy.Alas, I don't know if this will set up properly nor what ratio of materialswould be the strongest (or even if it will be strong enough!). The expansion issue is one I had not> considered. Basically a metal U-shaped plate that wraps around where the mortise was and strengthens the door in that (now weak) area. The price of changing locks is determined by the type of lock you wish to purchase. Glue in the patches and clamp. Observe grain direction. Good luck with whatever you decide to do. Any ideas or>suggestions would be appreciated. Scrape off the excess and let it cure. Also, you could turn the door around so the inside was out and vise-versa. Add a second lock shortly aboveor below, making sure you are into good wood in both the door and theframe. By clicking Accept all cookies, you agree Stack Exchange can store cookies on your device and disclose information in accordance with our Cookie Policy. Apply wood filler to the seams. Is there any recommended way of>fixing this? These sounded very nice, but luckily I won't have to resort to them. This> seems the "best" option of the three. Drill it through the door's front, focusing on the mark, with a 2 and 1/8-inch hole saw. Allow the glue to dry overnight. Used 1/2 by 4 blocks cut to 3" lengths as they were about 1/2" by 3.5" by 3" finished and slightly smaller than the mortise pockets. This seems the "best" option of the three. The catch is that they are about $200 more than the normal handleset. Site design / logo 2022 Stack Exchange Inc; user contributions licensed under CC BY-SA. So we are>looking at:> a) Replacing the entire door (at least $500 more than "now")> b) Using a new mortise lock (+$200)> c) A rebuilt or refurbished mortise (good possibility if we can find a> nice one), > d) Fill in the old mortise. Instead of a drill, use a screwdriver to remove all screws. A common mortise lock assembly usually comprises of the following: A cylindrical lock is fitted through the door and is equipped with a knob or lever on either side that, when spun or pushed, retracts the latch. He wasinstalling a new exterior garage door for me. They consist of a lockset with a striker that emerges from the edge of the door. There will be a rectangular hole or recess on the side of the door where the striker plate was removed. Cut the patch from this wood, and its negative in the: door, using an irregularly-shaped Masonite template and the router and: inlay set. Add percentage in the right side of the histogram with legend. No matter howyou patch it, it can't get a lot stronger than leaving the lock whereit is, without getting really ugly. Options for replacing mortise lock with keyless lock. 4. Using a pin nail gun and 1-inch nails, start nailing throughthe door's top and bottom, to keep it attached until well-glued. Otherwise, the only way I can think of is to plane the warp out of it.You won't have much door left after you're finished that, though. Finish.>. >>Also, if you hit down this far, are there any good suggestions for>>correcting some minor warpage in the door? It would not expand and contract with the rest of the>>door and would be a bitch to drill out for the new lockset (not to>>mention the dificulty in getting that thick an application of epoxy to>>cure evenly. 1. Is there any recommended way of>>fixing this?>>Oh. Your best bet would be to square up the hole using some SHARP wood chiselswithout damaging the veneer, and glue a precut block of wood that fits tightly into the hole.