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adjusted. If theres any dirt left, scrub it using a toothbrush with degreaser. The right-side (drive-side) thread is a left-hand thread, which tightens counterclockwise and loosen clockwise. You should also remove it if youve simply not serviced your bike in a long time. Insert the tool fully and remove the non-drive (left-side) cup by turning counterclockwise, holding the tool firmly to the cup. See the crank section for 3. It's easiest to remove the bottom bracket with the bike lying on its Once you have broken it free all that remains is to continue to turn the bottom bracket cartridge and remove it from the bb shell. But if youve used a cottered crank setup theres the hassle of keeping the cotter pin nut tight. Plus youre not going to use it very often at all, so best to get a bike shop to do this. I had this problem with a second hand bike I bought once. . The dirt here is often the source of creaks. When re-installing the old BB or a new one the result may be a cross threaded BB . lockring removing tool to the notches on the lockring and twist about 1/2 turn lockring left. apply the pin wrench to the bearing cups and turn counterclockwise until the cup Use a suitable BB removal tool to firmly tighten the drive side first anti-clockwise. document.getElementById( "ak_js_1" ).setAttribute( "value", ( new Date() ).getTime() ); This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. . Crank it round until you reach the point where you cant turn it anymore. Unique B2B insights from inside the Taiwan Bike Industry. Take the chain off the chainrings, and lay it on the frame next to the bottom (Photo shows a left-sided bottom bracket. Is there a 'hack' method of removing these? If youve tapped the BB shells and you are now finding resistance, it will be alright to slowly and carefully continue turning the bottom bracket into the shell. Install your old cranks, and away you go . ~Ultimate Guide to Square Taper Cranksets~. The bits are super-hardened steel and will cut into aluminum like its butter. The BB came off in seconds. Fitting the bottom bracket threads exactly to the BB shell threads is crucially important. Begin by removing the lockring. Apply cutting oil to assist in preserving the tools cutting edges. Adjusting the bearing tightness: First remove the left In total i have 1 seatpost 1 Cartridge BB 1 Cup + Cone BB 2 Pedals 1 Freewheel. This may be square tapered bolts, a toothed ring (splined That, You wont be able to break the drive-side free whilst the lockring is still firmly anchored in the non-drive side BB shell, If the square taper bottom bracket in question has a, But the drive side of a bottom bracket is generally. Repair your bike, track your cycling and find the nearest London bike shop - all from your iPhone: Your email address will not be published. WD40 is pretty bad at everything. Its not a good idea to mix the standards ie. Bolt your tool to the bottom bracket and hit it with the largest breaker bar you can find. If you cut, you will be cutting incorrectly. EDIT2: All i could find was a product called Penetr8 Hi Speed Penetrant by CRC. I'm not familiar with the Ice BB tool, but most have a hole that allows you to thread a bolt through to the spindle and keep the tool from slipping. For maximum benefit, do check out the video we made on the subject. Generally you should do this once per year. The non drive side is a plastic sleeve that helps hold the BB tightly in place. . I believe the person who built it did not use grease on the threads and used a 5 meter wrench to attach everything on to the point where they might as well have just welded the dam thing together. All of which equals a happy cyclist. What other elements need to be taken into account in removing and installing a square taper bottom bracket in particular? Note also the half-inch drive socket which will allow connection to a torque wrenchmore on that in a jiffy. Still, tapping (and facing . The drive-side is the crucial side of course since that constitutes the cartridge bottom bracket as a whole. Both sides tighten clockwise and loosen counterclockwise. Also, take the seat post out and spray as much PB Blaster down the seat tube as you can. If you head to the hardware store you should be able to find that in various lengths. My bottom bracket is old and cheap. opposite side is the cartridge containing all the guts of the bottom A local bike shop should be able to get your bottom bracket faced if it needs it. Very good instructions as was not sure on the process and left/right threads. Excellent set of instructions. Use the same bracket tool and wrench. And there will be less wear and tear . The common threading for bottom bracket shells is called English. The left-side cup is a right-hand thread direction, which tightens clockwise and removes counterclockwise. . New cups may come with dry threadlocker already applied. JIS square taper bottom brackets are easily distinguished due to their black color and standard numbering system. Your local bike shop should be able to offer advice if you get stuck. Eight splines (hence the Octa in Octalink) each 2mm in width and 5mm apart replaced the square taper bottom bracket spindles four faces. It is stuck. The less common Italian has both left and right sides with right-hand threading. bicycletutor.com The bottom bracket is often the source of many irritating creaks on your bike. The tapping bits need to be carefully rotated into the BB shells threads. Or bolt the tool to a vice and use the bike frame as a breaker bar. will usually have its size printed on the cartridge, but you have to take it out If your axle is hollow, using a skewer or small bot and large washers to clamp the frame/bottom bracket is an extremely good idea. No more regular overhaul, cleaning and regreasing . Either tool will do the job. Get rid of the old grease . If you aim for a torque setting of 35Nm on the lower end and 45Nm on the upper end, youll be fine. tool to the teeth on the lockring side of the bracket (usually left). If you are racking up thousands of kilometers in the saddle every year, then you may have to replace one sooner than later. I've tried prying the seat lug while trying to pull it out with no luck. Turn it clockwise! Give the shell a brush then a wipe with a shop cloth or rag. Thread right side counterclockwise into the shell. Bigger shops will likely have a pneumatic tool and driver to do the job. crank from the spindle. Set a hair dryer on a couple inches away and run it until both surfaces are hot to the touch then try again. If you have a titanium frame, this is highly recommended. Use a long length Allen key to tighten them if they are not. On new Shimano cartridge BBs, the . U'TKHeU!ly>';__wiNxi8f0c{nmS2Vj]WX $ASQO=qSp,-D ,h,:>n|HG[OO_u%k61-QpwjVCYlGC-L%0@e"l[XbNh9!. 1k/2bl(K.l . aj_pv = true; aj_click = ''; Bottom brackets also come in different widths, and with different spindle Regards Jeremy. If the bit is not seated exactly in the threads correctly from the very start, you will ruin them. Always looked quite daunting. lockring is on the left-hand side, opposite the chain. wrench. Cartridges with two nylon cups and alloy sleeve. you may have to turn the torque right up past 100 Nm if you are faced with a grimly stubborn BB. Continue to turn the bits into the bottom bracket shell until each is fully inserted. Tighten Learn how your comment data is processed. thanks for this, this has been the source of much irritation on my rides and for my wallet when i eventually get round to paying the LBS to replace it. To replace the bottom bracket, you have to do some major Check your bottom bracket by spinning the axle and seeing if it freely spins. Lube the threads on the inside of the bracket housing. This can be a pain. There are generally 2 ways to remove anything stuck and threaded, either impact as /u/TherapistMD recommended or more force, e.g. For a more intimate look at the process, you might like to check out the video weve made on this subject. There is no need to service this type of bottom bracket. A lot is in the feel of the tool: some extractions require more force than others and you develop the feel for what is appropriate Practice makes perfect but if you get it wrong (and you may not know what that is if youve never done it before) practising it would negate the DIY reason in the first place. If the square taper bottom bracket in question has a nylon lockring, it will likely not be very firmly seated in the BB shell. I felt it move a bit. It is highly advisable that the shell threads be thoroughly cleaned and tapped/faced at any rate as a standard procedure. The square taper bottom bracket substituted using a cotter pin to secure the crank to the spindle with bolts, Of course, one of the greatest incentives to move to a square taper design is that it will come in the form of a cartridge with, all you need to know about square taper bottom brackets, The simplest bearing setup allowing the spindle to rotate inside the, Its not a good idea to mix the standards ie. I'll have to keep it on the back-burner and ask around. In The bike cost me $25 and i doubt i will sell it past $80-100 - which brings in around $30-80 Net roughly. If you feel it crunching then the ball bearings may be worn. This was the ONLY way I could get a bottom bracket out of a 2007 frame that was assembled with near ZERO thread treatment. side, so take it out of your workstand for this part. Most square tapered bottom brackets come in the form of a cartridge and are thus called cartridge bottom brackets . Adjustable wrench ideally long length as the cranks and bottom bracket can be fairly jammed in there. Sealed Bottom Bracket: If your bottom bracket is a sealed cartridge . It's far better than WD40 for loosening stuck hardware. A tapping (and facing) tool is quite expensive. (Since you are removing a standard -- non-sealed -- So be prepared for a challenge. The pay per bike is generally better than the commission from building one at a bike shop but the time it takes to do it is massively increased by reversing the effects of neglect. The BB listen for noises within the bottom bracket. I got the WD40 on and hammer out and proceeded to give it a few swings in a clockwise direction. Note: A very special thank you to Lunar Cycles, which is a bike shop in Camden whove helped me bring these repairs to London Cyclist and to the Bike Doctor app. One steel and one nylon cup with an alloy sleeve. The one we replaced it with cost 22. I do happen to have a heat gun which i will use on it. But it probably wont be correct, and the force you will have to apply will likely ruin the threads. If you have not tapped the threads, or dont intend to, then thoroughly wipe down the BB shell threads. bearing tightness. Push the You have to make certain the tool is perfectly fitted to the lockring, otherwise it may slip. Rotate into the cut for one or one-and-a-half turns. . If the BB shell threads have been slightly flattened right at the BB face, the new BB may be very hard, nee, impossible to install. It is the cartridges 20 x 2mm splines lining the bbs drive-side and lockring interface that require the specific tool with matching splines to engage the bottom bracket. . away from, then back towards the bike to detect wobble. A seat post, or basically any type of narrow-gauge pipe, will do the trick. . Just Campagnolo and other European manufacturers use ISO. lots of harm can result where the grease is not enough. It will also generally be more efficient and less noisy. - After factoring in a new chain, oil,grease and degreaser,sales fees and probably a new cartridge BB. Convenient it may be but the short handle does not give you much leverage. Turn counter-clockwise. By continuing to force the bottom bracket you will ruin the threads which will mean they will have to be re-cut. You must remove both the left crank and the right crank arm On the plus side, this tool does recess the full length of the BBs engagement splines whereas the tool with the pin does not. With both the cranks removed, it is time to remove the bottom bracket. A torque wrench with the torque setting cranked up high to, say,70 Nm or so, will provide all the leverage required if you dont have a breaker bar or something similar. . Done this twice now where the previous mentioned ideas in this thread failed. Its worth replacing them with a known brand. heat is probably the only solution so be prepared to repair the paint job. The crank sits snugly on the splines without the need to jam the crank onto the spindle as with a square taper design. Your email address will not be published. This can be tricky as theres a pretty wide variety. Scan down to the next section. The taper is at an angle of 2 to the spindles centerline. . bracket unscrews in the opposite direction. And there will be less wear and tear . Post your problems, and we will try to get your bike rolling again. really good idea is to run a tap through the threads to ensure that they are in perfect order. This article will discuss how to remove and install bottom brackets used in threaded shells, including three-piece cranks, threaded "thru-spindle" external bearing cups, and bottom brackets used in T47 shells. With the bottom bracket removed, it is very important to thoroughly clean the bottom bracket area. for more information on these. the lockring down while restraining the bearing cup with a pin wrench. The combined leverage of the longer handle and the high torque setting will be enough to break all but the most stubborn bottom brackets free of their shell. The drive side clockwise to loosen and the other side counter clockwise to loosen. I'll consider trying the heat gun in combination with penetrating fluid for the seatpost. Of course, one of the greatest incentives to move to a square taper design is that it will come in the form of a cartridge with sealed bearings. Grease the taper and then re-install the cranks using an Allen key. . Required fields are marked *. More is more in this case; no harm done in applying more than you think is necessary . Cheaper bikes may come with odd components. Using the wrench employed to remove the left, non-drive side lockring, may work. put the cranks out away from the frame, and allow the front derailleur to When each bit has reached the limit inside the BB shell, smoothly turn the bits in the opposite direction to remove them. A forum for folks with questions about bicycle repair. . from the housing. This end is slightly tapered into a wedge shape, narrow at the end increasing in width. Install these as they come. No luck. Ideally Super Cheap Auto NZ would stock it or at least Bunnings NZ, EDIT: What about Permatex Fast Break $14 for 12oz. This one by Bike Hand, Note also the half-inch drive socket which will allow connection to a, but the short handle does not give you much leverage, Thats why a (large) torque wrench is especially useful. a set of "bottom bracket tools," consisting of a lockring tool and a pin If the wrench won't turn, have someone 3. Depending on how much i use and how often i use it, it might be good value, however i'd rather buy from a hardware store as they can often get prices down. what tools are required from start to finish? If you have Italian cups then these will be marked 36mmx24 TPI. No movement. Shimano and most other Asian manufacturers employ the JIS standard. It is important to not slip as you may damage the threads. Give the bottom bracket shell a liberal coating. bearing cup was removed, reinstall it, turning counterclockwise. By lengthening the wrench handle you increase the leverage exponentially. You need to support the tool and the bits as they approach the BB shell edge (face) and as you remove them. bearings into the grease. These instructions are fine for those with a cartridge BB, but not a lot of use for those of us who still use cup-and-cone BBs. 40mm is generally the starting length but if you only find a 50mm you can just stack a ton of washers on it. Bicycle maintenance bicycle maintenance, bicycle repair. As a manufacturer, we give brands options for providing bottom brackets to a wide range of cyclistsbrands can offer bottom brackets at different price points. If theres any washers inside the arm, remove them. Use degreaser if you have some handy. Ill start with First Components NC99 because it is unique in the marketa (patented) press fit square taper bottom bracket. The teeth will be damaged making it harder to remove and re-install. Fully secure cup to manufacturers torque specifications. The notches try to strip. The BB is still perfectly operational but i doubt it can be removed conventionally. Press J to jump to the feed. The precision engineering affording minimal tolerances is key here. There will be around a 4.5mm difference, for examplethe JIS crank will end up moving 4.5mm further towards the bb shell than if it were fitted to a JIS spindle. A breaker bar is the standard solution for loosening stubborn bottom brackets. I believe a large part of the problem was that the threads has so much grit in them. Italian threaded cups will have marking stating 36x24.. 6. Leave it slightly loose. Loosen and remove the 1. lockring from the left side. A really, really, really . So far i've tried it on the cartridge, a cup + cone BB and a stuck seatpost with no luck. If you have a good feel for this sort of job, use a short handled (non-torque wrench) drive. Everything i believe was over torqued and ungreased and to top it off, rust had bound certain areas together. The first is an ISIS bottom bracket tool. bottom bracket. hole in the frame. I've just aquired an old 90's Merida "Albontech 890" mountain bike. Tried that in the Merida BB. 7. Once you break the lockring free of the BB shell, continue to remove it with the tool and having loosened right up, complete the removal by hand. For the non-drive side, a torque wrench is not necessary. not gifted or confident when it comes to these kind of things but I would like to give it a go, if only to save money. When you feel the BB seat into the thread, reverse direction ie. After youve removed the Allen bolt, youll need to use the crank extractor. Its a matter of getting used to the specifics of whichever tool you opt for. NOTE: the bottom then come up against resistance. The simplest bearing setup allowing the spindle to rotate inside the bottom bracket shell: While nearly all square taper spindles have the 2 angle, there are two standards for measuring the spindles flat edges. "floppiness" of the cranks as you apply inward or outward pressure on teeth on the inside of the bracket cartridge, while the outer half is The simplest form of the square taper is in this cotterless spindle. Inspect the threaded cups for tool fittings. Your email address will not be published. up the lockring. I have modern bikes with both configurations: bracket left with The new BB will have a removable side which will typically be on the non-drive side. Simply install this press fit cartridge square taper design into your ruined bottom bracket shell. . Css Menu Javascript by Vista-Buttons.com v4.3.0. One side is the lockring, the Turn the regulator up as needed, making sure you are being square as possible so it doesn't strip out the interface. together, and secures them within the bottom of the bike frame.The bottom bracket has threads around the outside that secure it into the . This will require a lot of effort at first but then will become easy as it comes off. One is the JIS or Japanese Industry Standard. I have found that the impact route works better and has less risk of stripping the Shell. If there is one reason to upgrade from a cottered setup to a square taper BB then upgrading via a cartridge BB would be it. It may The problem was solved with the purchase of a 2-foot long chrome-vanadium wrench handle and the relevant socket to fit the extractor tool. Also, check the outer face of the bottom bracket is correctly faced. Pull the spindle out from the right side and catch the By this stage i was frustrated and put all body weight on the wrench on the clockwise direction. really good idea is to. You should also check the condition of the threads. Tighten it by using your hands only. Youll have both leverage and know you have reached tolerance. The first thing to do is loosen then remove the non-drive side lock ring. In this first stage just turn the bits into the bottom bracket shell just enough that they are supported by the shell . t4eP#V q@vV_]4d;\+dYiGjI'`"CL:uM9% SNvq'/`K\8*tOeiN 5yXq&aG|tbuy'#'9-;aAvEX/"+FU0Neh-/F&.~'xr~Y7"W8*hJkG7J?YIbY!q}HR\{%5anVf;9_/W!K'>NgExvLx3#`l0#g'sSA%]T4t} . VjYM0Zx,$!J:Id,eM!>A &qsPwOJ9N)U9,aYX8evHp;u-Ja!^KYzQIU hYUEqhO$"XQn#t9%vke4VeA6#y)evGCk9BmKDQ(Z+lJsv2zeM/mt-h0?6z\!b#X4`D1d6I\C4]JpW"u(K^JnO@k2VLetEqH }N\wI"I 2J;n~['*\NVv;^RH~ #axBgbq}7,ea>b@ V#lKgs+ B<8?',5W!ud28(XH4aL[-7%+m{bKv'{v:iY{Bk8@5]75]>" Also, heat. The post gives you all you need to know about square taper bottom brackets including how to remove and install them in great detail. bearings there also.). fits into the frame, and the spindles are 116 mm apart. Unscrew the bottom bracket. the opposite side's lockring may come loose as you turn the bottom bracket. A really, really, really . You will be much more likely to cross-thread the bottom bracket as you introduce it to those initial threads since there will be resistance from those damaged threads. You may need a crank extractor tool. This one by Bike Hand is available on Amazon. I intend on selling the frame to partially recoup my losses. Now But if your cottered crank setup becomes unusable in one way or another, then upgrading to a square taper bottom bracket will be the go. Is there any other alternative to PB Blaster. Turn counter clockwise to remove. Clean the threads on the inside of the bracket housing, and clean the Seeing as both bikes are caked in dirt, i actually wouldn't be suprised if grit getting into the threads and seatpost tube is partially the reason why everything is so difficult to remove. But, again, best never to mix standards if you can at all avoid it. crank type (a crank with a square hole must be mounted on a BB with the square Press question mark to learn the rest of the keyboard shortcuts. Begin with the square taper bottom bracket complete unit on the drive (right) side. Brake lever bolts, crank arms, stem all were extremely difficult to remove, often requiring a lot of WD40 and a hammer. It really helps if you can provide pictures and/or video. This can potentially be from the bottle cage bolts if they are missing or it is possible as the cups were not properly tightened. yes, I have seen bottom brackets that were not greased rattling around in shells that have been stripped of thread! We cover Octalink as well here since the procedure for removing and installing, along with the tools used are the same. , Hi, I replaced my Shimano Octalink bottom bracket, and found an issue tightening the left side last. No movement. loosen the bearings, clockwise to tighten. a bit closer together, you might buy a 68x112.5 BB. You always want a tool bit with that half-inch drive. If the BB is an old one, been in there for a long time, then that initial movement will be hard to get even if you have liberally applied penetrating fluids over an extended time period. This will give you a more reliable service in the long term. Ill shortly give you a detailed set of illustrated instructions on how to this with a minimum of trouble. If theres water trapped in the bottom bracket area then this is a bad sign and means it is leaking in to the frame from somewhere. bracket. Adjustable cup-and-cone threaded bottom brackets are reviewed in Bottom Bracket Service: Adjustable Cup-and-Cone. a JIS crank on an ISO spindle or the other way round, Combining the components from these opposing standards is possible, though, if you address the technical issue of the, Most square tapered bottom brackets come in the form of a cartridge and are thus called, then upgrading via a cartridge BB would be it, Simply remove the old bottom bracket and replace it with the new. Add to these a thirddont worry about the stripped thread. http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help, Thats impressive timing! The crank is pushed onto the wedge once the bolts that fit into either end of the spindle apply enough pressure as you crank them to the appropriate torque. Then stick the BB tool in, but a crank bolt through the hole to hold it in place (with 1/4 turn of slack), then put a spanner on the BB tool, a piece of pile on the tool, and all your weight on that. Achieving anything over 40Nm without a long-handled torque wrench will be extremely difficult. An alternative which does the same job is a cartridge bottom bracket tool. These have slightly different maintenance instructions, but none the less youll find our advice here useful. turn the bottom bracket to the leftit should turn smoothly into the BB shell all the way until the bottom bracket and the BB shell face are touching. Which website would you like to use? Unlike the English cups, they require clockwise turns to tighten on both sides. A robust tapping tool is what you will need to complete that task. I didnt think it had worn out, but when we pulled it out of the bike, it was clear that it had gone. This tool fits into the Applying grease to the bottom bracket shell along with the bottom bracket cup threads is extremely important. PARK TOOL and the color BLUE are registered trademarks of Park Tool Co. All other referenced trademarks and trademark registrations are the property of their respective owners. . Once both spindles are visible, apply a bottom-bracket Unfasten the bottom bracket from the left side in a counter clockwise turn. This is usually around 50Nm. A seat post, or basically any type of narrow-gauge pipe, will do the trick. Then reverse direction, loosening off. . yes to that! You may need to apply solvent. the crank off the spindle without damaging the bottom bracket. Give the bottom bracket shell a liberal coating. Buy some PB Blaster. The bit will both rotate easier and cut more keenly. After removing the lockring, flip the bike over, and take out the With the bottom bracket in place, check from the left side whether it looks correctly aligned inside the frame. reattach the cranks. If you are looking to replace a cottered crank setup with a square taper setup, then look no further than a cartridge bottom bracket. (If it turns out you're turning a wrong-sided bottom bracket cartridge, The splines in question are not related to the actual spindle-crank interface standard. At least till you crumple your frame ; ). Loads of WD40 applied If that does happen, try method two: Take to welding shop, have somebody weld on a nut. . Then, carefully line up the crank extractor with the threads. A square taper bottom bracket in the form of a cartridge is a reliable bottom bracket for your bike, easy to maintain and replace. If you dont have a torque wrench or a long-handled wrench, youll still have to find some way to apply leverage. You will need some specialized tools for carrying out this procedure. take different tools to remove the bracket.